When to plant Christmas Cactus
Christmas Cactus Grow, Care and Bloom
Contact us  Privacy

Cactushomecare.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com

Copyright 2017 CactusHomeCare.com All Rights Reserved
Recent Posts
Recent Posts

This plant (Schlumbergera bridesii or Schlumbergera truncata), although known as Christamas cactus, is really a succulent, having its origins in the tropics. Like the poinsettia, the Christmas cactus needs to follow a pretty strict regimen in the fall in order to bloom at holiday time. In order for the plant to form flower buds for holiday blooms, it needs extended darkness for at least four weeks prior.
Step 1
In late September or early October, place the plant in a dark room or keep covered (under a box or bag works fine) for at least 12 hours a day.
Step 2
When the tiny buds appear (after three to four weeks), the light/dark schedule can cease.
Step 3
As the buds get bigger, move the plant to its "display area", avoiding extreme temperature or lighting changes.
Step 4
Continue to water and feed while budding and blooming.
General Tips for Growing a Christmas Cactus
- Keep them potbound in sandy soil.
- Water only when the soil is completely dry.
- Provide some humidity to the environment.
- Don't worry if some of the buds drop off - it's natural for the plant to lose a few.
- Keep the temperature above 70°F in the daytime, from 55°F - 65°F at night.
- No matter what regimen you use or how strictly you adhere to it, the bloom time may vary based on the variety. Whether or not it blooms right on time for the holidays, you still have a treat to look forward to.
Yearly Plant Care Schedule for a Christmas Cactus
Spring - Fertilize after flowering.

Summer - Move outdoors to shady area. Maintain water and fertilizer.

Fall - Move indoors before frost. Maintain drier soil. Start the budding regimen in September.

Winter - Put it in a location where it will get four to six hours of indirect sunlight. Keep soil moist. Do not let the air get too dry.
Schlumbergera grow naturally in jungle-type woodlands attached to trees. They prefer a semi-shade situation as oppose to a full sun aspect of desert-dwelling cacti. An ideal situation would be well-lit yet out of direct sunlight with a humid atmosphere. Improve humidity by using gravel-filled saucers to place your plants upon and keep this moist.

Re-pot once a year (or at least every two years) to maintain healthy growth. This can be done at the end of March, which is the beginning of their growing season. Use a standard cactus compost or a loam based compost such as John Innes No 2 with added leafmould (or peat substitute) and grit to help improve the drainage. When potting on, choose only a slightly larger container as they like to be snug in a small pot.
After flowering a resting period is required. From late January to late March, reduce the watering to only occasionally so that the compost does not completely dry out and reduce the temperature to 12-15°C (55-59°F). This can be done easily by moving to a cooler room
The growing season is from April-September; increase the watering and start feeding with a houseplant liquid feed. During the growing season maintain temperature of 18-20°C (65-69°F) if possible

During the summer months, when the risk of frost has past, they can be placed outside. This will help to ripen new growth and encourages flowering. Keep them in a shady spot and protect from slugs

From mid-September the flowering buds start to develop with shortening days and a reduction in temperature. The watering and temperature should be reduced (as before) with a second resting period. But only until the flowering buds have formed, then increase the temperature back to 18-20°C (65-69°F) and resume regular watering

Your plant should then flower and give you a wonderful display. Exact temperatures are not critical to promote flowering provided there are two resting periods with a reduction in watering and temperature
Schlumbergera require little or no pruning, but they can get a bit leggy and old plants can become congested. To help the plant bush-up remove the tips and, with congested plants, remove a few of the oldest and most damaged stems. Always remove whole segments of the leaf-like stems; this will leave you with a nicer looking plant.
Propagating schlumbergera from cuttings is nice and easy, and great fun for children to do.

The segmented leaf-like stems make the cuttings robust and easy to handle
In May remove terminal (tip) or lower sections made up of two or three sections. Allow them to dry out indoors for a day or two, so that the basal wound has dried and begun to heal

Insert the cuttings into a 50:50 mix of seed/cuttings compost and sharp sand. Push the bottom of the cutting into the compost about 1cm (½in) deep or just deep enough to keep them upright. If inserted too deeply they will rot off

Keep them in a light spot that is out of direct sunlight at a temperature of 18-24°C (65-69°F). Water very sparingly and mist occasionally

The cuttings can take three to 12 weeks to root. Once they are well rooted pot them on individually
Schlumbergera are pretty much pest and disease free with only mealybug being a common pest. However they do have a few physical and cultivation problems.

Shrivelling of the stems can be caused by the plant being in a too hot and sunny situation. However it is often due to root deterioration cause by over or under watering.

Scorch; discolours and damages the stems and is caused by the plant being placed in a situation that is too hot and sunny. These are not desert cacti and would naturally grow in woodland in dappled shade.

Non-flowering could be due to the day length not shortening or/and the temperatures not dropping to mimic autumn. For example, if the plant is near an artificial light source after dark and the temperature doesn’t drop below 18°C.

Flower bud dropping is usually cause by fluctuating temperatures. Too hot by day too cold by night. However, overwatering can also cause flower buds to drop. Plants exposed to cold in florists, at garden centres or in the car are also vulnerable.

Late-flowering; can occur when the temperature has remained to high into autumn.

General poor growth can be a sign of over potting and the pot is too large for the plant; they do like to be snug in a pot. Remove the pot to check on root development. If there is little or no sign of new growth, with minimum disturbance remove excess compost and carefully put it into a smaller pot. This action should encourage new root grow and recovery.
Cultivation notes
Pruning and training